Navigating Mallorca's coastline by beautifully restored art deco sailing yachts
As we anchored at Cala Deià and the sun tired into a haze over the Tramuntana Mountains that stretch along Mallorca's northern coast, the sea's temperament began to change from the calmness of the day. Lying on deck, rocking from side to side to the rhythm of the waves passing under us, I watched as each star perforated the black sky, eventually drifting off into a deep sleep.
When I woke up the next morning; the water had returned to stillness, revealing the piercing turquoise of the cala (cove) in the near distance, as sunbather's covered the surrounding rock outcrops. Deià may be one of the best-known beaches on Mallorca, but out here, floating between the mountains and sea, we were able to enjoy it by ourselves.
Having set off from the port of Sóller, we were sailing on Kilena, a restored 60-foot-long Swedish Marconi rig, built in 1934. She, along with So Fong, a classic 1937 schooner from Hong Kong, are available for charter through the 700-year-old estate of Son Moragues in Valldemossa. Once the home of adventurous aristocrat Archduke Luis Salvador of Austria, who first visited the island in 1876 and bought much of the land on the mountainous coast between Valldemossa and Deià, Son Moragues sits elegantly like a fortress watching over this patch of the island. The Archduke was passionate about protecting the Tramuntana's forests and ancient olive groves, and he set a precedent for the current owner, who continues to build paths that give access to the natural splendour while protecting wildlife.
Under its Sonmo label, the estate remains a working farm, producing olive oil, and holding tastings and experiences such as picnics and walks through the olive grove to a refuge that was built by the Archduke in 1910. It also runs textile and ceramic workshops and has created its own line of tableware and accessories, which are used on the boats and are available to buy in its shops in Valldemossa and Palma.
At the mercy of winds and currents, being at sea forces you to surrender to the moment, as changing conditions determine where you can reach and when. From Cala Deià, we sailed southwest to S'Estaca, passing stone houses that appeared to hang off the rockface and fishing huts with colourful painted doors. Later, in search of more shelter, we changed course to Sa Foradada, for a swim and paella at the namesake restaurant. The next day, we ventured northeast of Sóller, towards the pebbled Cala Tuent, backed by a pine forest, and further on to Sa Calobra, where we took out the dinghy to swim and snorkel near rocky coves and caves.
The theatrical rituals between each change of destination are majestic, as the crew flurries to untie and raise sails along the mast and glide the boat through the open water in gentle sways. Unlike sailing under motor power, on Kilena every function requires the human touch and embodies a symbiotic tradition that has existed for centuries - from the particular method for tying each rope, to the folding of the sails and steering a course with the wooden wheel. You are thrown into the present, all on deck, moving slowly through time.
Ways and means
Kilena sleeps up to seven and is available for daily charter or tailor-made trips departing from Sóller, from €4,325 a night, including crew, some catering, soft drinks and Sonmo olive oil tastings: sonmo.es.
